Sadus Tiles

SADUS TILES INSTLLATION GUIDE

Please Note:
For successful installation of cement tiles it is important to follow the guidelines below. The installation of cement tiles is not difficult but differs from that of ceramic or other types of tile. We suggest using a professional installer who has experience working with cement tile. Unfinished cement tiles are matte and porous. Dirt can easily enter the tiles; therefore your tiles are delivered with a thin layer of wax already applied. We cannot be held responsible for tiles after installation. Correct and careful installation will ensure your enjoyment of our cement tiles for years to come.


PREPARATION:

  • Cement tiles are traditionally installed with cement on a firm sub floor (concrete or stabilized sand).
  • The concrete slab needs to be completely dry before installation, otherwise the moisture in the concrete can evaporate through the tiles, resulting in a powdery white limestone deposit (efflorescence)
  • The lack of flexibility of the concrete can sometimes lead to hairline cracks if the sub floor shifts. To prevent cracking or fracturing from movement of the substrate and ultimately the earth itself, be sure to include expansion, contraction, construction, generic and perimeter joints where appropriate.
  • The tiles need to be soaked in water before beginning installation.
  • Do not use a hammer. This can crack or even break the tiles. Instead use the palm of your hand to apply pressure to position and level the tiles.
  • For installation in a shower, bath, washtub, kitchen or anywhere the surface is in direct contact with water, it is necessary to waterproof the sub floor. This is especially the case when a sub floor is sensitive to water, such as wood.

  • INSTALLATION:

  • Place guide lines to help install the tiles in uniform straight lines.
  • For the installation of motif tiles, start at the axes of the room to center the motif.
  • Double gluing: apply sufficient cement to both the sub floor and on the back of the tile to allow for even placement and leveling. Ensure the whole tile is supported with cement otherwise there is the possibility of breaking at the corners.
  • Use a sturdy concrete or cement paste, if the paste is too thin, it’s possible that the tile will drop slightly after your final leveling.
  • Place the tiles along the guide line being careful to level them to the same height. There should be no more than 1mm in height difference between adjacent tiles.
  • Note: there can be a 1.5 - 2mm difference in tile thickness.
  • Install the tiles with a gap of 2 - 3 mm, the smaller the gap the more attractive the final result of the tile design. Please check your local regulations, in some countries building regulations/ insurance company policies require wider joints. Wider joints may also be necessary when using under floor heating mats or cables. Wider joints can also be a choice of design aesthetics.

  • INSTALLING A BASEBOARD:

  • A baseboard is a line of tiles placed along walls where they meet the floor. Its function is to give a neater and more pleasing finish to the floor edge and also makes cleaning easier.
  • Mortar the gaps of the baseboard the same way as the floor tiles.
  • The top of the baseboard should be angled into the wall and can later be painted the same color as the wall.
  • Corners: place the tiles for a corner and cut them with a diamond saw with water set at 45º degrees. Sand the sharp edges with 100 grade sand paper.

  • MORTARING OR GROUTING:

  • Mortaring or grouting can take place 4 or 5 days after laying the tiles.
  • Use a common middle gray color mortar for the small gaps with a cement base and no additives.
  • Just before mortaring, wet the floor and the tiles with clean water until they don’t absorb water anymore. This is necessary to fill the small gaps. Use a very fluid mortar and never a paste.
  • Sadus Tiles are delivered with a thin layer of wax to prevent the mortar/ grout from entering the tiles. Remove any excess grout immediately with a clean sponge and clean water. Do not let excess grout dry on the surface as it may be difficult to remove and may stain the tiles.

  • CLEANING AND POLISHING:

  • You may wish to clean the tiles with a floor polisher if the tiles are very dirty or if you desire a gloss finish.
  • After the grout is dry (usually about 48 hours), use a floor polisher with a sand screen pad to clean the tiles thoroughly. Wet the floor enough so that the floor polisher is always working on a wet surface. Use a back and forth motion, turning slowly from right to left until the entire area has been covered. (One sand screen pad # 240 should clean approximately 50 square feet.)
  • Just before mortaring, wet the floor and the tiles with clean water until they don’t absorb water anymore. This is necessary to fill the small gaps. Use a very fluid mortar and never a paste.
  • Remove remaining water on the tiles and finish drying with a dry cloth. Don’t worry if it appears that the tile colour is running - it isn’t. Actually the sand screen pad is sanding off a fine layer of the tile’s surface. It is important to carefully rinse off any colour residue so it will not stain other tiles.
  • If polished tiles were installed, you can use a single disc floor machine with a white pad to remove any residue. Remove excess dirt and water and dry with a dry cloth.
  • IMPORTANT: Do not use any acids or alkaline products to clean tiles. Use a PH neutral cleaner and fine sandpaper to remove any stains or residues. Do not allow water or other liquids to spot, pond or ring on the surface of the tiles.

  • REGULAR MAINTENANCE:

  • Use a simple, unscented soap or soap sold specifically for cleaning natural stone or terracotta floors. Regularly clean the tiles to brighten the colors and protect the floor. Polish the tiles for a shiny surface. For a satin look clean the tiles with water after polishing.

  • AGING OF THE TILES:

  • The more often you clean your tiles with soap and polish them the more your floor will have a satiny finish, with a softness and warmth. Just like wood, parquet, natural stone or marble cement tiles will acquire their full beauty over several years.

  • USE OF TILES OUTDOORS:

  • Cement tiles can be used outdoors if there is enough protection from severe weather, such as a city garden with walls or a terrace in a semi- Mediterranean climate. Even then it’s possible that the tiles will develop hairline cracks in the porous surface, as with a lot of natural stones. Cement tiles placed outside can also change color due to acid rain in combination with sunshine or other environmental conditions. In such cases, it will be individual taste that will determine whether this “antique” or “living” character of the tiles is desirable and can be appreciated.
  • Some special points to keep in mind for outdoor application include:
  • Place the tiles on a perfect waterproof sub floor.
  • Stir the cement well before applying to the tiles otherwise water bubbles may be trapped underneath which in the presence of frost can loosen or crack the tiles.
  • The grouting or mortar in the gaps needs to be well maintained to avoid water penetration under the tiles.
  • Very slightly angle the tiles so that water drains from the surface of the floor; it is not good to have water standing on the tiles.
  • We recommend cleaning the tiles regularly with soap and water, so that water will quickly run off the surface.